"ØYEBLIKK is a story about a period of time that once existed, a period of time that shaped the way I see the world, a period of time that we all share now."
Each garment has its own story. Taking reference from memory or photographs, the pieces were realised through a process of spontaneity in an aim to allow that time to exist as a beautiful memory, embodied within objects.
Footwear was made in collaboration with designer Helen Kirkum, Resin pieces in collaboration with milliner Jo Miller, and tear crystals in collaboration with bio-scientist and material innovator, Alice Potts.
LOOKBOOK PHOTOS Matthew Needham
FILM
MATERIALS
THE LONG JOHNS
‘The Long Johns’ were worn outside, to sleep, and were hardly taken off.
‘The Wind Machine ’experiment gave an outline for ‘The Wind Jersey’ allowing a stretch that would form around the body of the wearer, referencing the wind and movement of this base layer.
Version 1 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib cuffs.
Version 2 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib cuffs.
THE TWIST VEST
Each piece is draped from offcuts of the last.
‘The Wind Machine ’experiment gave an outline for ‘The Wind Jersey’ allowing a stretch that would form around the body of the wearer, referencing the wind and movement of this base layer.
Version 1 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib cuffs.
Version 2 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib.
THE CYCLING SHORTS
The version of ‘The Long Johns’ whereby the garment splits to stretch over the toes.
‘The Wind Machine ’experiment gave an outline for ‘The Wind Jersey’ allowing a stretch that would form around the body of the wearer, referencing the wind and movement of this base layer.
Version 1 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib cuffs.
Version 2 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib.
THE ROMEO VEST
Developed from a toile made in 20 minutes. Worn as a skirt, a top, a belt…
‘The Wind Machine ’experiment gave an outline for ‘The Wind Jersey’ becoming garments of simplicity with stretch that would form around the body, in reference to the wind and movement of this base layer.
Organic Jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib.
THE FISHING JACKET
‘The Fishing Jacket’ is a memory taken from a photograph.
It has been developed with design lines taken from photographs of the original piece that is now long gone. By piecing together elements of jackets worn in recent years, the jacket as it exists now is an amalgamation of this memory.
Ship sail from Spain, Suitcase from Barnardo’s, Fluorescent Nike sports bag found in the studio, re-used cord, YKK dead stock zips, Alexander McQueen dead stock lining fabrics.
PHOTO: Stopforth Studio
THE PANEL LEGGINGS
A photograph in a cabin viewed from one side. The rest is imaginary.
Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company, grey UAL store jersey used during toiling.
THE FLUORESCENT JACKET
The fluorescent traveller glows in the blue light. Practicality and reminiscence are symbiotic.
The original fluorescent jacket was used during ‘Experiement with plastic sheet outside’ and became an integral part of this story.
Hi vis jackets from Kings X staff and Chris Carey recycling centre, Alexander McQueen dead stock, second hand eyelets, reused stay tape.
THE GREEN HOODIE
The hoodie was worn across the world from mountains to cities.
Based on the original garment, this version is hyper-imagined.
Second-hand fabric from a friend, binding made from working overalls that belonged to Paul Needham, Alexander McQueen dead stock as lining fabric, YKK dead stock, headphone wire, rock from Fabio’s office.
THE L/S TOP
Each piece is draped from off cuts of the last.
‘The Wind Machine ’experiment gave an outline for ‘The Wind Jersey’ allowing a stretch that would form around the body of the wearer, referencing the wind and movement of this base layer.
Version 1 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib cuffs.
Version 2 – Organic jersey off cuts from the Organic Textile Company with exposed dual binding on the outer seams made of a coffee stained version of the same and organic jersey rib.
THE AIR SHAPE
Dead stock silk form Alexander McQueen, duvet from Bernardo’s, Needham suitcase components from the 1990’s, discarded cord sample from Louis Vuitton.
THE SHIP SAIL DRESS
Spontaneity created this garment.
Through developing ‘The Fishing Jacket,’ the ship sail came wrapped in a protective sheath that had aged over time. Preserving the authentic beauty of this and how it continues the story, the entirety of this object has been up cycled into a dress.
Ship sail cover from Spain, original ship sail tie, Alexander McQueen deadstock jersey, boning.
THE WIND BREAKER
As the cold wind blows, the body becomes visible.
It is dark and cold, can you hear me? Can you see me?
Dead stock silk from Alexander McQueen, hi vis jackets from Kings X workers, UAL E store dead stock, YKK dead stock, headphone wire, rock collected by Morgan in Bodø, Norway.
THE DUVET DRESS
A duvet emotes warmth, comfort, and sex.
This object, worn as a dress, started life as an image from ‘The Wind Machine’ experiment. The silhouette is reference to a sleeping bag used to protect from the elements. The original duvey exists as the lining.
Duvet from Barnardo’s, Alexander McQueen dead stock silk cotton suitcase zip and components.
SHOW INSERT
ØYEBLIKK was presented in an installation-style format and opened the Central Saint Martins MA Press Show on 14th February 2020 at 1 Granary Square, London.
As the story unfolded, each member of the travelling group enters the space, lit by a singular white light. These personas have been on a journey that led them to the space, their hair is wind swept with flushed skin, sweat beads and silver details that glisten in the light.
As the audience ponders on the thought of where this group has come from, they read the synopsis on the insert left on their seat. On the back is an explanation for the pieces that they wear, their origin, and their reason to exsist. They tell the story.
A moment recreated, a moment to reflect.
ØYEBLIKK STICK-AND-POKE TATTOO. Morgan wears ‘THE CYCLING SHORTS’ BLACK. PHOTO: Stopforth Studio
'ØYEBLIKK'
MATTHEW NEEDHAM CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS
MA FASHION GRADUATE COLLECTION 2020
CREDITS
ALL CLOTHING
MATTHEW NEEDHAM
FOOTWEAR
MATTHEW NEEDHAM X HELEN KIRKUM
RESIN PIECES
MATTHEW NEEDHAM X JO MILLER
‘THE TEARRING’
MATTHEW NEEDHAM X ALICE POTTS
PHOTOGRAPHY
STOPFORTH STUDIO
HARRY BRADBURY
MATTHEW NEEDHAM
MAKE UP
MATTIE WHITE
HAIR
MIKE O'GORMAN
MODELS
MORGAN JOHNSON
BEN WESCOTT
XOEY FOURR
GEORGE MANBY
FLO HUTCHINGS
RALF AKHIGBE
EDWARD DENNEY
MARIA @ CIEL MODEL MANAGEMENT
WILLIAM SOAMES
MUSIC BY
MÍŠA
FILM BY
ADRIAN JORDAN
BEN CHAPMAN
SPONSORED BY
SUSTAINABILITY FUND
SPECIAL THANKS
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
VIBRAM
YKK
CHANEL S.A.S
THE ORGANIC TEXTILE COMPANY
BARNARDOS
TERRY PAUL & JOLIE LEVY
ORSOLA DE CASTRO
SARAH MOWER
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS
FABIO PIRAS
FLEET BIGWOOD
JULIE VERHOEVEN
JANE SHEPHERD
LOUISE GRAY
MELANIE ASHLEY
DEBBIE LOTMORE
BETHANY WILLIAMS
NATALIE HODGSON
CARLOTA BUSTOS DE ROSSELLO
JACOB PULLEY
LISA LEHA HOANG
RENATO DIAS BRAS
MADDIE WILLIAMS
NAVNEET VIRK
GEORGE SMITH
PAUL NEEDHAM
EMILY BRADSHAW
MIŠA
